Wine Tastes: The Production of Culture among Service Workers and Consumers in Napa Valley Wineries Open Access

Jamerson, Heather M. (2010)

Permanent URL: https://etd.library.emory.edu/concern/etds/nz806042z?locale=en
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Abstract


Abstract
Wine Tastes:The Production of Culture among Service Workers and Consumers in Napa Valley Wineries
By Heather Michelle Jamerson


More people than ever before organize their lives around consumption, thereby allowing most income groups the ability to use commodities to upscale their lifestyles. This process is especially evident in the case of wine, as consumers from all walks of life upscale their lifestyle through its consumption. In the United States, a familiarity with fine wine has long served as cultural currency within high status groups. However, the U.S. wine industry has experienced explosive growth in recent years making wine and wine-related knowledge (e.g., ratings) more accessible across income groups. The expanded sense of wine "tastes" and wider access to wines may suggest that old class hierarchies have been replaced by more democratic spaces of consumption--with fine wine consumption no longer limited to the affluent. Yet, not all wines are equal, nor are all consumers. Instead, industry critics and "experts" (e.g., Robert Parker or The Wine Spectator) legitimate certain wines and how to appreciate them. Simultaneously, consumers themselves enter consumption sites with varying levels of skills and knowledge (e.g., cultural capital) that shape their tastes for particular wines and how they consume them. Service workers mediate this relationship by communicating critic-generated information about style, value, and ways to appreciate wine to consumers. By using wine as a case study, this project combines research on the production of culture and on cultural capital to ask: How do service workers (as cultural intermediaries) and consumers interact with expert-generated classifications and under what conditions do these interactions uphold or lessen social class boundaries? This project draws on a variety of data sources, including industry publications (e.g., The Wine Spectator); participant observation and interviews with consumers and tasting room hosts in Napa Valley, California; and informal conversations with industry insiders (e.g., winemakers, consultants and winery owners). These findings advance theoretical and empirical knowledge about stratification as well as economic and cultural sociology by highlighting the cultural dimensions of social class and status.

Table of Contents

Table of Contents

CHAPTER 1: INTRODUCTION: WINE IN THE FIELDS OF PRODUCTION AND
CONSUMPTION.................................................................................................................................................1

CHAPTER 2: OUT OF THE DUST OF THE PROHIBITION: U.S. WINE CLASSIFICATIONS
AND NAPA VALLEY........................................................................................................................................7

INTRODUCTION..................................................................................................................................................7
FROM PROHIBITION TO PRESENT....................................................................................................................9
MARKET EXPANSION VS. QUALITY................................................................................................................17
FEDERAL REGULATIONS AND INDUSTRY CLASSIFICATIONS........................................................................25
American Viticultural Areas (AVAs)........................................................................................................26
Labeling......................................................................................................................................................29
Beyond Legal Classifications....................................................................................................................37
Distribution and Sales...............................................................................................................................44
CONCLUSION...................................................................................................................................................50
CHAPTER 3: IN VINO VERITAS: RESEARCH METHODS AND DATA..........................................52
QUALITATIVE RESEARCH...............................................................................................................................52
Case Study and Grounded Theory Research...........................................................................................53
RESEARCH METHODS.....................................................................................................................................60
Text Analysis..............................................................................................................................................61
Sampling in Napa Valley...........................................................................................................................64
Participant observation.............................................................................................................................68
Interviews and Informal Conversations...................................................................................................69
ANALYSIS.........................................................................................................................................................73
QUALITATIVE RESEARCH: SUBJECTIVITY AND REFLEXIVITY.....................................................................75
DATA COLLECTION.........................................................................................................................................81
Spring 2006................................................................................................................................................81
Winter 2006................................................................................................................................................85
Spring/Summer 2007.................................................................................................................................87
Spring/Summer 2008.................................................................................................................................93
CONCLUSION...................................................................................................................................................97
CHAPTER 4: INTOXICATORS, EDUCATORS AND GATEKEEPERS: THE ENACTMENT OF
SYMBOLIC BOUNDARIES IN NAPA WINERIES..................................................................................99

INTRODUCTION................................................................................................................................................99
ARTISTIC CLASSIFICATIONS.........................................................................................................................101
ACS and Market Societies.......................................................................................................................104
The Role of Critics as "Experts"............................................................................................................106
Service Workers as Intermediaries.........................................................................................................109
WINERIES IN NAPA VALLEY.........................................................................................................................112
Mass-Commercial (Generalists).............................................................................................................114
Limited Commercial (Specialists)..........................................................................................................119
Elite/Exclusive (Specialists)....................................................................................................................124
Old Napa...............................................................................................................................................................125
New Napa..............................................................................................................................................................126
Elite Tasting Rooms.............................................................................................................................................129
THE ENACTMENT OF CLASSIFICATIONS IN NAPA WINERIES.....................................................................132
Mass-Commercial: Intoxicators and the Sale of Status........................................................................133
Limited Commercial: Educators.............................................................................................................137
Elite/Exclusive: Gatekeepers..................................................................................................................143
CONCLUSION.................................................................................................................................................154
CHAPTER 5: NAPA VALLEY CONSUMERS AND THE MERGING OF SYMBOLIC AND
SOCIAL BOUNDARIES................................................................................................................................159
INTRODUCTION..............................................................................................................................................159
CONSUMPTION AND SOCIAL BOUNDARIES..................................................................................................163
THE ORGANIZATION OF SPACE....................................................................................................................173
VARIOUS FORMS OF CAPITAL AND FORMS OF LEGITIMACY......................................................................176
Mass Commercial Consumers................................................................................................................176
Limited Commercial Consumers............................................................................................................184
Status-Oriented Elite Consumers...........................................................................................................193
Cultural Omnivorous Elite Consumers..................................................................................................205
CONCLUSION.................................................................................................................................................221

CHAPTER 6: CONCLUSION: THE LINGERING FINISH.................................................................228
FUTURE RESEARCH......................................................................................................................................240
CONCLUSION.................................................................................................................................................245


List of Tables

TABLE 1: TOP 10 WINE COMPANIES IN THE US (BASED ON CASE SALES)
TABLE 2: SUMMARY OF RESEARCH DESIGN (INTERMEDIARIES)
TABLE 3: SUMMARY OF RESEARCH DESIGN (CONSUMERS)
TABLE 4: INTERVIEW GUIDE FOR WINE TASTING ROOM STAFF
TABLE 5: INTERVIEW GUIDE: CONSUMERS
TABLE 6: DEMOGRAPHIC AND OCCUPATIONAL INFORMATION FORM
TABLE 7: CODE LIST
TABLE 8: FIELD RESEARCH IN NAPA VALLEY
TABLE 9: SUMMARY OF WINE ORGANIZATIONS IN NAPA VALLEY
TABLE 10: SUMMARY OF TASTING ROOMS IN NAPA VALLEY
TABLE 11: CLASSIFICATIONS IN NAPA TASTING ROOMS
TABLE 12: CONSUMER CATEGORIES
TABLE 13: COMPARISON BETWEEN HOLT'S (1998) LCC RESPONDENTS AND NAPA VALLEY MASS COMMERCIAL CONSUMERS
TABLE 14: COMPARISON BETWEEN HOLT'S HCC RESPONDENTS AND STATUS-ORIENTED AND OMNIVOROUS CONSUMERS IN ELITE TASTING ROOMS

List of Figures
FIGURE 1: THEORETICAL DIAGRAM
FIGURE 2: ARTISTIC CLASSIFICATIONS IN MARKET DRIVEN SOCIETIES
FIGURE 3: CLASSIFICATIONS, TASTING ROOMS, CONSUMERS AND CONSUMER CULTURES

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